How to Stay Safe in Eritrea
1. Introduction
Eritrea, on the Red Sea coast of the Horn of Africa, is one of the world’s most closed and isolated countries—sometimes called ‘the North Korea of Africa.’ Since independence from Ethiopia in 1993, President Isaias Afwerki has ruled without elections, with no independent media, no civil society organisations, and near-total control of citizens’ lives. Indefinite national service has driven hundreds of thousands to flee, making Eritrea one of the world’s top sources of refugees relative to its population.
Despite this, Eritrea has genuine attractions: the Art Deco and Modernist architecture of Asmara (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Dahlak Archipelago (excellent diving, virtually pristine reefs), ancient ruins at Qohaito and Adulis, and dramatic highland scenery. Tourism is heavily controlled by the state—all tourists must use government-approved guides and follow prescribed itineraries. Most Western governments rate Eritrea as ‘exercise a high degree of caution’ or ‘reconsider travel.’
| ⚠ Authoritarian State: Eritrea’s government monitors all foreigners closely. Independently exploring beyond sanctioned tourist areas, speaking with locals about politics, or attempting to document human rights conditions are activities that can lead to detention. A government-approved guide is not optional—it is legally mandatory. |
2. Security Landscape & State Control
Street crime against tourists is relatively low—the authoritarian security apparatus deters ordinary crime. The main security risks come from the state itself and from border tensions. The Eritrea–Ethiopia border has historically been disputed and militarised, and though the 2018 peace deal brought formal reconciliation, the border area remains sensitive. The border with Djibouti and the border with Sudan in the west have had tensions.
Photography is highly controlled in Eritrea—government buildings, military installations, the port, airport, and infrastructure cannot be photographed. In practice, photographing anything outside designated tourist sites can attract attention and potential detention. Your government-assigned guide will advise, but err strongly on the side of caution.
| ⚠ Mandatory Travel Permit: To travel outside Asmara, you need a travel permit (‘travel authorisation’) from the Ministry of Tourism or Ministry of Internal Affairs. Your government-assigned guide will facilitate this, but plan itineraries in advance. Travelling without permits can result in arrest. |
3. Asmara: Africa’s Art Deco Capital
Asmara is one of Africa’s most architecturally distinctive cities—a showcase of Italian Modernist, Futurist, and Art Deco architecture from the colonial period (1890–1941). The city feels like a time capsule: low-crime, clean, walkable, and genuinely beautiful. The Fiat Tagliero Building, Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, and the Cinema Impero are highlights.
Daily life in Asmara has a gentle quality—people sit in outdoor cafes drinking macchiato (Italian-influenced coffee culture is strong), and the city is remarkably car-free by African standards. The underlying repression is largely invisible to brief visitors, but talking politics with locals carries real risks for them.
| ✔ Coffee Culture: Eritrea’s Italian-influenced espresso and macchiato culture is exceptional. Sitting in one of Asmara’s historic cafes for coffee is a genuine pleasure and a low-risk way to experience local life. |
4. Transportation Safety
Movement in Eritrea is heavily controlled. Travel outside Asmara requires permits and typically government-assigned transport. The road network is limited; roads in some areas are mined or in disrepair from past wars. The railway from Asmara to Massawa (the historic port city) is one of the world’s most dramatic mountain railway journeys but operates irregularly—check in advance.
Massawa on the Red Sea coast, about 115km from Asmara, is accessible by the mountain road and is the gateway to the Dahlak Archipelago. Asmara’s Asmara International Airport has limited connections (mainly Cairo, Dubai, Frankfurt, and regional cities). Entry is strictly controlled—obtain your visa before travel from an Eritrean embassy.
5. Health & Medical Safety
Malaria is present in lowland areas (Massawa, Dahlak Archipelago) but not in Asmara’s highland climate. Yellow fever vaccination may be required depending on origin country. Typhoid, hepatitis, and other waterborne diseases are present. Medical facilities in Asmara are limited—Halibet Hospital and Orotta National Referral Hospital are the main facilities but are under-resourced. Serious cases require evacuation to Cairo or Europe. Travel insurance with evacuation coverage is essential.
Tap water in Asmara is generally considered safe to drink (treated), which is unusual for the region—though bottled water is advisable as a precaution. Massawa and coastal areas have less reliable water quality.
6. Common Scams & How to Avoid Them
Scams are less prevalent in Eritrea than in most African tourist destinations, largely because tourism is so controlled. However, a few situations warrant awareness:
| Scam Name | How It Works | How to Avoid It |
| Currency Black Market | Individuals offer exchange rates far above official rates. Black market currency exchange is illegal and can result in serious legal consequences. | Use only official bank exchange or hotel services. The risk of arrest far outweighs any gain. |
| Overcharging at Tourist Sites | Vendors at Qohaito, Adulis, and other sites quote tourist prices for admission and guides. | Establish fees with your government-assigned guide before visiting. Prices should be transparent. |
| Taxi Overcharging in Asmara | Despite controls, taxi drivers sometimes quote above-standard rates. | Ask your hotel for standard Asmara taxi fare guidelines. The city is small—most journeys are short. |
| ‘Souvenir’ Export Issues | Purchasing certain items (old coins, historical artefacts) can lead to customs issues at departure. | Only purchase souvenirs from government-sanctioned shops. Keep all receipts. |
| Photography Entrapment | Someone encourages you to photograph a restricted building or area, creating an opportunity for official confrontation. | Only photograph what your official guide explicitly clears. When in doubt, put the camera away. |
7. Legal & Cultural Considerations
Eritrea is one of the world’s most repressive states. Foreign journalists and human rights investigators have been detained for long periods without charge. Do not attempt to document human rights conditions or interview locals about politics. Any materials that could be construed as critical of the government should be left at home.
Eritrea is roughly half Christian (Orthodox) and half Muslim. Both communities are represented in Asmara. Religious practice is officially tolerated for ‘recognised’ denominations but suppressed for ‘unrecognised’ groups (Jehovah’s Witnesses, evangelical Christians). Dress modestly in towns and religious sites. Homosexuality is illegal and prosecuted.
8. Emergency Contacts
| Service | Number / Info |
| Police Asmara | +291 1 12 70 99 |
| Orotta National Referral Hospital | +291 1 20 25 99 |
| Italian Embassy Asmara | +291 1 12 01 60 |
| EU Delegation Asmara | +291 1 18 30 48 |
| UK Embassy (Addis covers Eritrea) | +251 11 617 0100 |
9. Pre-Departure Safety Checklist
- Obtain Eritrean visa from embassy well in advance—no visa on arrival
- Contact Ministry of Tourism in Asmara to arrange government guide
- Check travel advisory—note state control environment
- Obtain required vaccinations
- Begin antimalarials if visiting coastal areas
- Purchase travel insurance with evacuation coverage
- Carry only necessary photography equipment—and exercise extreme restraint
- Leave all politically sensitive materials at home
- Download offline maps before arrival—internet access is severely restricted
- Register with your embassy before travel
- Carry sufficient cash—Nakfa (ERN) is the only legal currency; USD and EUR can be exchanged officially
